Hey guys, need an experienced ford techs advice, no idea where to start with this one...and pulling my hair out :tard:
I am having trouble with my 2005 Ford F250, 6.0L 4x4. The truck has 101,000 miles and an extensive shop/repair history (it's been a long road...but hangin in there...I'll get to that in a further down). This morning, my wife started the truck and drove it ~ 5 miles to the gas station to get diesel. When she went to start it after refueling, it wouldn't crank at all. She did say after starting the truck the programmer came on then turned off after about a minute into her drive. Here's what I have diagnosed so far...
*When I cycle the key, all the instrument cluster lights (glow plug, WRENCH, abs lights) all come on
*The odometer readout indicates 000,000 after key is on, but reads correctly when no key is inserted
*TBC fault displays
*When performing a system check (in the Instrument Cluster) it comes up with connection errors
*It's not the batteries, they have been tested by Ford...also tried to jump it and I have full power to the rest of the truck
*I tried disconnecting the batteries for 20 minutes to reset the computer...still no luck
*I checked all the fuses (drivers side under hood/ under dash), none "appear" to be blown, performed a continuity test and fuses are good.
* I also checked the fusible links on the passenger side behind the battery...all fine
*I DO hear the relay's clicking when attempting to start the truck but again, the starter won't engage; I also tried switching some of the relays around* I jumped the starter and the truck "DID" turn over
* I am NOT hearing the injector "buzz" with key on
*I am getting power to my cigarette lighter plug
*I have an SCT Programmer and a scan tool and tried to pull codes, but results in an error and cannot retrieve DTC codes from the PCM.
* I checked the fan wiring harness, I understand that is a common culprit on these trucks, no sign of any damage.
Definately worth noting, 2 years ago I replaced the alternator and was given a faulty alternator which over-volted while pulling a boat, voltage increased to 15.5v momentarilly. During the overvoltage, my radio shut off and my IC gauges bounced/twitched everytime the voltage spiked above 15v. After replacing the alternator, I noticed my (IC) battery light and high beam light operate intermittently. But "other than" the battery light and high beam light, the truck has been running/charging normally....at least until today.
Also the last several months, the truck has been starting very ruff (showing ~9v on my programmer immediatly after starting the truck) until the voltage jumps up ~14.3 volts after about 1-2 minutes, at which point it runs great! Had the batteries tested by Ford dealer, they tested good, but suspect a weak alternator is drawing to much amperage off my batteries on initial startup.
The truck has had during my ownership:
New injectors
Bed plate re-sealed
New head gaskets
ARP head studs
New oil cooler
new HPOP
New FICM
New thermostat
Completely flushed cooling system (VC9 etc.) and replaced with CAT ELC Coolant
New belts, hoses, all fluids, etc
EGR replaced, then deleted
Cat Delete New turbo (powermax)
New alternator
Updated STC fittings, etc, etc....
How do I determine what is wrong from here, I am suspected the PCM, Instrument Cluster, wiring issue...how do I narrow it down in a methodical way to identify the culprit?
Thanks in advance!:sick:
I am having trouble with my 2005 Ford F250, 6.0L 4x4. The truck has 101,000 miles and an extensive shop/repair history (it's been a long road...but hangin in there...I'll get to that in a further down). This morning, my wife started the truck and drove it ~ 5 miles to the gas station to get diesel. When she went to start it after refueling, it wouldn't crank at all. She did say after starting the truck the programmer came on then turned off after about a minute into her drive. Here's what I have diagnosed so far...
*When I cycle the key, all the instrument cluster lights (glow plug, WRENCH, abs lights) all come on
*The odometer readout indicates 000,000 after key is on, but reads correctly when no key is inserted
*TBC fault displays
*When performing a system check (in the Instrument Cluster) it comes up with connection errors
*It's not the batteries, they have been tested by Ford...also tried to jump it and I have full power to the rest of the truck
*I tried disconnecting the batteries for 20 minutes to reset the computer...still no luck
*I checked all the fuses (drivers side under hood/ under dash), none "appear" to be blown, performed a continuity test and fuses are good.
* I also checked the fusible links on the passenger side behind the battery...all fine
*I DO hear the relay's clicking when attempting to start the truck but again, the starter won't engage; I also tried switching some of the relays around* I jumped the starter and the truck "DID" turn over
* I am NOT hearing the injector "buzz" with key on
*I am getting power to my cigarette lighter plug
*I have an SCT Programmer and a scan tool and tried to pull codes, but results in an error and cannot retrieve DTC codes from the PCM.
* I checked the fan wiring harness, I understand that is a common culprit on these trucks, no sign of any damage.
Definately worth noting, 2 years ago I replaced the alternator and was given a faulty alternator which over-volted while pulling a boat, voltage increased to 15.5v momentarilly. During the overvoltage, my radio shut off and my IC gauges bounced/twitched everytime the voltage spiked above 15v. After replacing the alternator, I noticed my (IC) battery light and high beam light operate intermittently. But "other than" the battery light and high beam light, the truck has been running/charging normally....at least until today.
Also the last several months, the truck has been starting very ruff (showing ~9v on my programmer immediatly after starting the truck) until the voltage jumps up ~14.3 volts after about 1-2 minutes, at which point it runs great! Had the batteries tested by Ford dealer, they tested good, but suspect a weak alternator is drawing to much amperage off my batteries on initial startup.
The truck has had during my ownership:
New injectors
Bed plate re-sealed
New head gaskets
ARP head studs
New oil cooler
new HPOP
New FICM
New thermostat
Completely flushed cooling system (VC9 etc.) and replaced with CAT ELC Coolant
New belts, hoses, all fluids, etc
EGR replaced, then deleted
Cat Delete New turbo (powermax)
New alternator
Updated STC fittings, etc, etc....
How do I determine what is wrong from here, I am suspected the PCM, Instrument Cluster, wiring issue...how do I narrow it down in a methodical way to identify the culprit?
Thanks in advance!:sick: