I have a 95 F350 7.3 DRW 4x2 Crew Cab 168" WB since 9/12. Since day one I have been chasing my tail with the brakes on this thing. I have gone through every aspect of this system and I am stumped. I have read a lot of threads on here and other forums about the brakes. I have the service manuals... I've done my research. :read: My issue is that I can not do a "panic stop" if wanted or need to. It stops nowhere near as quick as I think it should be. The wheels do not lock up at all. Here is what I have done:
Front and rear brakes are new, adjusted and seem to be working (I hear/see them working while bleeding). Service Brakes do work (but again can't lock up the rears). Service Brake cables in good shape (not binding or anything). Front Brakes are new rotors, calipers, pads, hardware. Rear brakes are new drums, shoes, cylinders, hardware. New master cylinder (x2), 1st was 1 1/8" bore the 2nd and current is a 1 1/4" bore. New booster (not the zero loss) and vacuum pump. I even confirmed the push rod on the booster is within spec. All three hoses new. Steel brake lines are in good condition. No external leaks anywhere. It looks like they were replaced in the not too distant past.
By the way, yes, all of this had tested bad or was found below spec. I did not, "just throw parts" at it. It's been like peeling a never ending onion to try to get the brakes to work.
The RABS valve had rust and junk in it; it will need to be replaced. It is hydraulically bypassed at the moment. Yes, yes, living on the edge but I've driven non-abs vehicles before. I do intend on replacing it but I want the brakes to be A++ before I add that back into the system.
I have probably bled through a total of 3 gals of DOT 3 fluid since I had the truck. The last brake service, I went through 40 oz of fluid to make sure the air is out. I've tried all the tricks for gravity, two man and pressure (not vacuum). The system is bled and has fresh fluid.
With the 1 1/8" MC, the pedal went 85% before the brakes even started to engage. You needed full travel just to bring the truck to a stop. I bit the cost of that MC and got a 1 1/4" MC. Pedal travel is improved but it is still 33%-50% before the brakes start to engage and most of the time I'm standing on them to stop the truck in a short situation:eek:. I don't mind a firm brake, I just want the vehicle to match what I am doing.
The only oddity is that the face of the driver-side rear hub run out is out of spec by .006" causing the drum to be off. I added a .006 shim and the drum is back within spec. Hub bearing and seal are good at the moment. That is a fight for another day.....
The only items I have not replaced are the steel lines (again, in good shape), the service brake cables (good condition) and the "control valve" on the rear circuit of the MC (how do you test that?).
As far as the zero loss booster, that only corrected the slow, creeping pedal effect, right? I have that, I can live with that (Not worth it to me for $150 - $200). From what I read, the zero loss does not address my symptoms. Thoughts?
This is not my trade but I do my own maintenance on my vehicles :thumbsup:. In addition to the truck, I have a 1995 Hyundai and 2002 Grand Prix. I have never had this much of an issue with brakes on those two as I do with this beast. The other two stop on a dime if I want them to. I know this truck is heavier but I should still be able to stop short if I need to, especially when empty.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (and sorry for the long post).
Front and rear brakes are new, adjusted and seem to be working (I hear/see them working while bleeding). Service Brakes do work (but again can't lock up the rears). Service Brake cables in good shape (not binding or anything). Front Brakes are new rotors, calipers, pads, hardware. Rear brakes are new drums, shoes, cylinders, hardware. New master cylinder (x2), 1st was 1 1/8" bore the 2nd and current is a 1 1/4" bore. New booster (not the zero loss) and vacuum pump. I even confirmed the push rod on the booster is within spec. All three hoses new. Steel brake lines are in good condition. No external leaks anywhere. It looks like they were replaced in the not too distant past.
By the way, yes, all of this had tested bad or was found below spec. I did not, "just throw parts" at it. It's been like peeling a never ending onion to try to get the brakes to work.
The RABS valve had rust and junk in it; it will need to be replaced. It is hydraulically bypassed at the moment. Yes, yes, living on the edge but I've driven non-abs vehicles before. I do intend on replacing it but I want the brakes to be A++ before I add that back into the system.
I have probably bled through a total of 3 gals of DOT 3 fluid since I had the truck. The last brake service, I went through 40 oz of fluid to make sure the air is out. I've tried all the tricks for gravity, two man and pressure (not vacuum). The system is bled and has fresh fluid.
With the 1 1/8" MC, the pedal went 85% before the brakes even started to engage. You needed full travel just to bring the truck to a stop. I bit the cost of that MC and got a 1 1/4" MC. Pedal travel is improved but it is still 33%-50% before the brakes start to engage and most of the time I'm standing on them to stop the truck in a short situation:eek:. I don't mind a firm brake, I just want the vehicle to match what I am doing.
The only oddity is that the face of the driver-side rear hub run out is out of spec by .006" causing the drum to be off. I added a .006 shim and the drum is back within spec. Hub bearing and seal are good at the moment. That is a fight for another day.....
The only items I have not replaced are the steel lines (again, in good shape), the service brake cables (good condition) and the "control valve" on the rear circuit of the MC (how do you test that?).
As far as the zero loss booster, that only corrected the slow, creeping pedal effect, right? I have that, I can live with that (Not worth it to me for $150 - $200). From what I read, the zero loss does not address my symptoms. Thoughts?
This is not my trade but I do my own maintenance on my vehicles :thumbsup:. In addition to the truck, I have a 1995 Hyundai and 2002 Grand Prix. I have never had this much of an issue with brakes on those two as I do with this beast. The other two stop on a dime if I want them to. I know this truck is heavier but I should still be able to stop short if I need to, especially when empty.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (and sorry for the long post).